Monday, 16 February 2015

Kamena vrata - Digging for gold

HR
Novi smjer na desnom kraju sektora A : Digging for gold 5c+ , 22m.
EN
New route on the far right side of sektor A: Digging for gold 5c+ , 22m.

Tuesday, 10 February 2015

Tarajlije - new winter sector in Paklenica

HR
Tokom posljednje dvije godine lokalni penjači predvođeni Markom Marasovićem opremili su novi odličan sektor na početku glavnog dijela kanjona. Sektor je odličan za hladnije doba godine. Nudi vrlo lijepe, duge smjerove, često po sigama, koji traže veliku izdržljivost. Pogled i ambijent su savršeni a jedina mana je nešto duži pristup (30 min).
EN
In last two years local climbers developed and equipped a new, mostly winter sector in Paklenica. It is located high above parking at the entrance to the gorge. Routes are nice and long, mostly on tufas and require lot of stamina. View and ambience are fantastic, and probably the only disadvantage is little bit longer approach (30 min).





 Routes:
 
1. Kužiš jebiga 6c (6a+,6c) 50 m
2. Ajme meni 7b? (6a+,7b?) 40 m
3. Kurvina,pasja srića 7b+ (6b+,7b+) 48 m
4. Pipl mast trast as 7c+ (6c+,7b+,7c+) 55 m
5. 100% Deda 7c+ (6b+,7c+) 34m
6. Petra & Pavla 7c (7a+/b,7c) 55 m
6a. Copacabana 8a+ 55 m
6b. Balavi 6c+ 35 m
7. Pro
8. ? 7a+ 35 m
9. Satch boogie 7a+ 30 m
10. Pro ? 40

 
 

Monday, 9 February 2015

New 8c in Kompanj

HR
Klemen Bečan izveo je prvi uspon u dugogodišnjem projektu ( redni br.6) u sektoru B. Ocjena 8c . Ime zasad nije poznato
EN
Klemen Bečan climbed a long time project in sektor B. Route is graded 8c. We still wait for the name. On topo it is route nr.6.

Monday, 2 February 2015

Protection - new route in Trogir

HR
Desno od smjera Mind control ( Mala stina ) Ivan Lisica popeo je novi smjer - Protection 7a+.
EN
Right of the route Mind control ( Mala stina ) Ivan Lisica climbed a new line - Protection 7a+.

Wednesday, 28 January 2015

Paklenica news

HR
Igor Čorko opremio je pet novih smjerova u sektoru Devnjača A/4 (prijašnji smjerovi više ne postoje):
s lijeva : 1. Polovnjača 7c, 2. Devnjača 7b+, 3. ? 7c+,4.  FBI 7a+, 5. KGB 6c.

Novi smjer je opremljen i u Debelom kuku ( zasad nema skice ): ulazi lijevo od BWSC zatim ga križa i penje desno od njega do vrha stijene: LWSC - Live With a very Serious Climber (7c+/8a, 220m /po dužinama 6c, 7c+/8a , 6a, 7b+, 6b+  )

EN
Igor Čorko opened five new routes in sektor Devnjača A/4 (previous routes does not exist any more):
from left: 1. Polovnjača 7c, 2. Devnjača 7b+, 3. ? 7c+,4.  FBI 7a+, 5. KGB 6c.

New route is climbed in Debeli kuk ( at the moment there is no topo ). Start is left from BWSC. After one pitch new route crosses BWSC and then goes right from BWSC all the way to the top. Fully bolted. LWSC - Live With a very Serious Climber (7c+/8a, 220m / 6c, 7c+/8a , 6a, 7b+, 6b+  ).

Devnjača / FBI 7a+ foto:marul.hr
 
 

Kalnik - Crni Roko

HR
Novi smjer na Starom gradu koji se nalazi  lijevo od Bezimenog: Crni roko, ocjena 6b
EN
New route on sektor Stari grad, left from Bezimeni: Crni roko , grade 6b